Karakorum - ancient capital of Mongolia

Skip down to get Karakorum facts on: how to get there and getting around. Also discover what you can see; what you can do; what to buy; what to eat and where to sleep.

Or read on for a little background…

The background

Genghis Khan rallied his troops in a place called Karakorum in 1218. By 1220, he had founded a city which would become the center of his empire. Genghis Khan’s capital started life as Kharkhorin. Kharkhorin was a nomadic settlement which would move location several times a year.

Genghis Khan’s son, Ogodei, fixed Kharkhorin's location when he built walls and a palace. Under Ogodei, Kharkhorin became an important political center. Several important dignitaries visited the city, including William of Rubruck—a papal envoy.

William described Kharkhorin as a religious center with twelve Buddhist temples, two mosques and a Nestorian church. Kharkhorin had also established itself as a center of commerce. William describes the sale of grain at the East gate; sheep and goats at the West gate; cattle at the South gate and horses at the North gate.

Like today's capital, Ulan Bator, ger settlements surrounded Kharkhorin's fixed center.

When Kublai Khan took to the throne in 1260, he moved the Mongolian empire's capital to Beijing. From this time on, civil war battered Kharkhorin. Eventually, Kharkhorin's walls and buildings were razed. In 1585, the ruins were used to build a Tibetan Buddhist monastery called Erdene Zuu. This temple still stands.

Today Kharkhorin is commonly called Karakorum. In 2004 the prime minister of Mongolia, Elbegdorj, started a project to build a new Mongolian capital on the same site. The project failed. But Kharkhorin remains a powerful symbol of past glory. The recent election of Elbegdorj as president may well see a revival of the Karakorum project.

How to get there

Genghis Khan's ancient capital lies 360 kilometers southwest of Ulan Bator on Mongolia's main east-west route. It takes a full day to drive to Karakorum from Ulan Bator. Most people split the journey into two days and stay at a ger camp en route.

Getting around

The nomads use camels and horses. It's easy to arrange a horse or camel trek if you're interested. But most tourists travel by jeep.

What to See

Few ruins remain—a nomadic city leaves little behind. In fact, of the old Kharkhorin, only a stone tortoise remains…

You will find it near Erdene Zuu — a Buddhist Tibetan monastery. Built from the ruins of Kharkhorin in 1585, Erdene Zuu is the oldest surviving monastery in Mongolia today.

A soviet government partly destroyed Erdene Zuu in the 1930s, but it has since reopened as a museum. However, I saw plenty of monks during my visit, so there must be some religious activity taking place as well...

Monks from the Erdene Zuu monastery erected another popular site: the phallic rock...

Again you will find this near the monastery. The phallic rock points toward a vaginal hill. You will need to stand on the opposite side of the plaque to notice this—see the picture above.

The ruins of Kharbalgas

The Orkhon Valley contains the ruins of three more capital cities. Because of their historical importance, Orkhon has received World Heritage status.

The most prominent ruin belongs to Kharbalgas: the former Uighur capital. First discovered by a European in 1871, they were at first mistaken for Karakorum.

Orkhon waterfall

Mongolia's longest river—the Orkhon, runs through the Orkhon Valley.

Not far from Karakorum, the Orkhon River drops twenty meters to form a dramatic waterfall...

Silver fountain—symbol of Karakorum

Many conscripted artisans lived in Kharkhorin at its peak. One, a Parisian silver smith called Guillame Bouchier, crafted a silver fountain.

The tree-shaped fountain was entwined with a silver serpent and crowned with an angel. A different type of alcoholic drink spurted out of four pipes.

You can see a reconstruction in the grounds of a Karakorum motel. You can also see an artist's impression on the back of a five thousand tugrik note.

What to do

Walk around an ovoo...

Karakorum has always held religious significance.

Below you can see an ovoo—a shamanistic monument. Travelers wish for a safe journey by walking round it three times. These days, people often drive round three times instead.

Spin a prayer wheel...

If you can’t find an ovoo, try spinning a prayer wheel at Erdene Zuu Monastery...

Fishing...

The Orkhon River hosts thirteen types of fish including Baikal, Sturgeon and Taimen. You don't need expertise to catch them...

I bought some line and a hook from a local market, picked up a broken stick, dug up a grub...

And managed to catch something...but it got away.

Meet the locals...

Friendly nomads will happily feed you with various local delicacies. If you're feeling brave, they may let you ride a horse.

What to buy

You can buy various texts, beads and other Buddhist artifacts from Erdene Zuu Monastery. Not much for sale elsewhere.

What to eat

Local restaurants will serve a typical range of Mongolian food.

If you visit nomads, they will likely serve you with a variety of mutton or milk based dishes. The dairy snacks come in one taste and texture: sour and hard.

If the above menu doesn't excite you, make sure you take a packed lunch!

What to drink

Nomads will offer you salty milk tea and airag. Airag is fermented mares' milk. Mongolians claim the alcoholic content is two percent—but it can equal beer.

Talking of beer—don't miss the local dark beer: Khar Khorum (yet another way to spell Karakorum). You can buy it in Ulan Bator as well.

Where to sleep

Forget hotels—they exist, but who comes to Mongolia to stay in a hotel?

You will find ger camps dotted all over the steppe. Gers are the circular white tents nomads live in. Ger camps have various levels of comfort, but don't expect five-star treatment.

Getting out

Just don't drive back the same way you came. There's so much to see in Mongolia—it would be a shame to follow the same route home.